[DIY] Reparar linhas fundidas do display TID OPEL
Já pus este tópico no COPT, mas como também pode interessar pessoal que por aqui anda, cá vai:
Como provavelmente sabem, um dos problemas dos displays da Opel, é que passado alguns anos, apresentam linhas fundidas, dificultando a leitura da informação apresentada.
No meu caso já começaram a desaparecer algumas linhas e na Opel pediram-me cerca de 300€ para substituir o display.
Procurei na net informação sobre este assunto e deixo-vos aqui o melhor que encontrei. Em inglês!
Agora falta ganhar coragem e colocar mãos à obra!!!
Cumps
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IMPORTANT UPDATE!!!! Please read...
I tried to "repair" my TID with those instructions but I didn't success. I decided to find out what has gone wrong. Here is what I found.
It is written:
> Now using a Stanley knife blade, sc**** off the grey carbonised deposits
> which will have oxidised onto the circuit board connector.
Don't! The grey stuff is not a "carbonised deposit" but a conductive material, essential part of the flat "cable"! If you sc**** it off, the wire will be cut. For sure. If you disagree, I can provide Megs of digital photos taken by the digital camera installed to our professional 4x Leica microscope.
If you want to do something more than adding pressure to the connection, I would prefer a conductive glue. And maybe some careful heating with hair dryer.
> Be careful, we don't want to totally sc**** off the gold contact, just the
> dusty white/grey stuff. Here's a picky of before cleaning/after cleaning.
Well, you really don´t need to worry about that. To damage the gold plating, you need a HEAVY abrasion, or alternatively, a pretty sharp blade, stable hand and a set purpose to injure the plating.
Br,
Juha Ritala
RF-Design Engineer
Finland
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This How To explains how to repair your TID
display once it has shown signs of fatigue by loosing parts of the display as shown below. As
you can see, it's impossible to see the clock or outside temp, and the date/radio station is
corrupted.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v118/p3ryg/1.jpg
Tools needed:
For dash removal - Flat screwdriver, Crosshead screwdriver (magnetic if possible), 4 feeler
gauges (I used normal kitchen knives)
For digi repair - Small flat screwdriver, Soldering Iron, De soldering tool/wick (not
essential), Stanley Knife, Old Toothbrush, Cable tie.
First, you must remove the dashboard clocks. It sounds daunting, but it really is quite easy.
The only fiddly bits are the vents really. I couldn't unscrew my steering wheel height
adjuster, so I had to leave the bottom column shroud on, but that didn't matter. I must
stress that you SHOULD NOT turn on the ignition with the dash
out, this will trigger an airbag sensor fault which can only be reset by Vauxhall.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v118/p3ryg/2.jpg
Once the clocks are removed unscrew the two securing scres for the TID. This will allow the
remove of the Digital unit and you should end up with this..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v118/p3ryg/3.jpg
To gain access to the module, you need to cut the "anti-tamper" lugs which are moulded into
the sides do this with a Stanley knife.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v118/p3ryg/4.jpg
Now the back should come off and the internals should appear like this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v118/p3ryg/5.jpg
The next step is to de-solder the 3 contacts for the clock setting buttons. This is easier if
you have a de soldering tool (RS part no 544-516) or some de soldering wick, obtainable from
any electronics shop like Tandy etc.
Once the contacts have been de soldered, you can remove the assembly like shown above.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v118/p3ryg/6.jpg
Now the only things holding the module in its casing are the retaining clips. Press these in
and carefully draw the module out. This is what it looks like above.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v118/p3ryg/7.jpg
Mine is the simple "Triple Info Display (TID)" but the multifunction ones are similar. They have 1 long ribbon instead of 4 small ones.
Here's where it gets a little bit tricky. Don't worry - it's buggered anyway so what have you got to lose ? Carefully begin to peel the ribbon away from the circuit board - NOT FROM THE LCD !!. Gently pull it downwards like this. Stop pulling once you ahve about 2mm of the contacts showing.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v118/p3ryg/8.jpg
Now using a Stanley knife blade, sc**** off the grey carbonised deposits which will have
oxidised onto the circuit board connector. Be careful, we don't want to totally sc**** off
the gold contact, just the dusty white/grey stuff. Here's a picky of before cleaning/after
cleaning.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v118/p3ryg/9.jpg
Don't be tempted to jump to the next contact until the one you're working on is clean.
It's totally boring I know, but you might as well do it properly now you've got the thing
in bits. Try and sc**** along the length of the contact rather than across it. This is to
reduce the chance of a short circuit. When you are happy the contacts are nice and clean,
give them a gentle rub with an old toothbrush to remove any debris.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v118/p3ryg/10.jpg
Now it's time to put the thing back together. In addition to the "heated joint" method,
Siemens have used a silicon band to apply extra pressure to the joint. We need to apply even
more pressure to ensure a decent connection, so find something that will sit nicely
underneath the silicon band, and is about 1 - 2 mm thick. I wouldn't recommend something
that conducts electricity as this could short out the clock setting buttons when you replace
the contacts. I used an 8" cable tie cut down to size like this....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v118/p3ryg/11.jpg
Hold each contact up with a small screwy while you solder.
Now carefully replace the back part of the outer cover, clicking it's locking tabs into
position. Remember there will be a little more tension due to the thickness of the cable tie
sitting on the circuit board/ribbon cable joint. Now it's just a case of refitting to to
your dash, then fitting that into the car.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v118/p3ryg/12.jpg
The end result.
Thanks to Pete Evans for words and pictures