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Tópico: DIY Cavas de roda traseira com ferrugem

  1. #1
    Junior Member Novo user
    Data de Inscrição
    Jan 2011
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    3

    Red face DIY Cavas de roda traseira com ferrugem

    Aqui fica um post que tirei de outro site para quem tiver jeito para o fazer lolo

    Trata se de remover a ferrugem das cavas de roda traseiras do crx lol

    para quem tem este tipo de carro como eu da jeito lol

    http://board.hondacrx.co.uk/phpBB2/v...c.php?t=113713

    Ok ive been meaning to write this up for a while now. Im not a pro bodywork guy and this is the way i decided to do it and may not be the same way as others would go about it.
    I have a bit of experience with welding and bodywork, but only from working on my own cars and mates cars, so anyone with some basic skills, tools and time should be able to acheive similar results.

    My car is very clean rust wise, but for some reason the rear corner had started to rust on one side. probably a blocked water drain or from previous damage. Rest of the car is mint.

    I used a replacement civic arch. They are very similar but have a different profile indent at the rear corner above the bumper strip. These can be shaped to fit perfect with some bending and hammering on a dolly.

    You will need:

    Replacement arch, grinders, welder (i used mig), filler, rivets, clamps, panel bond, paint, masks, glasses, beer, hammer, sandpaper, machine polisher, fire extinguisher, sheet metal, sanding block, jack and stands, etc etc.

    Step 1.
    Cut out all rust back to good metal.



    Cut sheet metal and shape to fit for new inner arch. i used some of the spare metal from the repair arch panel i wont be using. Weld in place.



    next cut out the section of repair panel you need. it is best to use only what you need, that way in the future the arch can be done again using more of the panel. fit it over the area, mark the edges, cut out rusted area to shape of the new panel.


    At this point make sure the profile of the 2 panels match.

    Im going for a butt welded panel as i think this is the best way to go about it for a smoth finish and original shape. it also eliminates any water traps between overlapped panels. Tack weld panel in place about 2 inches apart, then tack again between tacks. best to do one end then another to stop warping or the weld pulling the panel.




    next weld the whole panel in place. you just want to do a tack, then another just over lapping it while it is still glowing, then another, then another maybe a second apart so you dont blow holes in the panel. Keep the heat down with a wet towel. Do one inch, skip and inch then come back and so fourth to stop heat building up and the arch warping. your aiming for something like this.

    next grind down the welds nice and smoth and weld up any pin holes.

    now grind back the paint on the arch with a wire grinder ready to smooth over with filler.

    first skim of filler, then sand down with a sanding block and repeat getting any bits that need it. I like to sand almost all the filler off so its back to metal in places and only has filler where it needs it. others like to leave a mm or so filler over the whole area.


    spray with high build primer and sand again. you will notice any bits that need more filler or work. You should also be using a finer sand paper by now, something like 600. Also worth mentioning i bonded the inner and outer arch together with tiger seal and then smoothed out with some more seal under the lip and undersealed everything.




    next prime the whole area with high build primer then sand down with about 1200 grit soft block. key the rest of the panel and clean with something to remove all wax and polish.
    you will notice that the replacement arch has a very slightly fatter lip on the curve of the arch. this is barely noticible when painted.

    next buy some basecoat and clear and shoot some paint at it. Or get a bodyshop to finish and paint it for you. i painted the whole panel down to the windscreen.

    Once hard you can take some fine paper 1200-1600 and sand out any fine scratches or orange peel, then machine polish with a few stages of paste.


    The finished result:


    Hope this is of help to some of you who are thinking about doing arches in the future. Its really not that hard to do properly and will be a million times better than just filling with fiberglass and filler, only to find it bubbling again in 6 months time.
    Última edição por bcrx; 06-01-2011 às 08:57.

  2. #2
    sky
    sky está desconectado
    Z32 J spec 99 Super user Avatar de sky
    Data de Inscrição
    Sep 2003
    Localização
    japan
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    5.053

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    Da me aí tua pass e user name para ver. lol

  3. #3
    Detailer Super user
    Data de Inscrição
    Mar 2009
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    1.445

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    Citação Mensagem Original de sky Ver Post
    Da me aí tua pass e user name para ver. lol
    2x tambem quero ver
    5000 RPM´s onde os diesel acabam e os verdadeiros carros começam
    Detalhe Automóvel

  4. #4
    Senior Member Super user Avatar de Danyy24
    Data de Inscrição
    Apr 2007
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    Algueirao - Sintra
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    3.537

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    Citação Mensagem Original de FilipeJA Ver Post
    2x tambem quero ver
    X3... ou então copia e cola tudo aki...
    Fiat Punto Gt XX-XX-DX ____ Sold
    Colt 1.6 GLXi XX-XX-AM ____ Trackday Car
    Civic Eg6 Vti XX-XX-FA ____ 189.2Cv 178.5Nw.m

    Dyno - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Efdudt-5uo

    Projecto Honda: http://www.tuning.online.pt/forum/vti-fa-finalmente-nos-projectos-t122898.html

    Projecto Colt:http://www.tuning.online.pt/forum/mi...a-t148225.html

  5. #5
    Senior Member Average 2
    Data de Inscrição
    Jun 2008
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    230

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    x4

    Isso interessa, mas não me vou estar a registar de propósito num fórum para ver...

  6. #6
    Junior Member Novo user
    Data de Inscrição
    Jan 2011
    Mensagens
    3

    Padrão

    copiado e colado NO FIM DA PAGINA para o pessoal.
    nao melembrei do pequeno premenor do registo agora ja podem ver lolololo
    cumps
    Última edição por bcrx; 12-01-2011 às 09:38.

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